Ridgway William Newland (1790-1864), Congregational minister and pioneer, was born near Odiham, Hampshire, England. He was selected by the Colonial Missionary Society to form a settlement in South Australia, sailing on the Sir Charles Forbes with some thirty colonists, including his second wife, née Keeling, an accomplished classical scholar, caring for her three young children and five of Newland's first marriage. The party arrived in Adelaide in June 1839 and went on in the Lord Hobart to Encounter Bay, where a large area of land was taken up.
Newland pioneered with great gusto, helping his party to build houses that formed the township of Yelki. Under his initiative the small settlement became self sufficient. From local clay he made jars and milk dishes, and, after advice from Hanley, burnt and crushed whale bones for export to the potteries. Crops flourished better than livestock on the coast; he lost sheep from footrot and cattle did not prosper. He worked with his people, clearing land, ploughing, harvesting, driving bullocks, breaking in horses and milking cows. By 1841 he had six wells and could report to Governor (Sir) George Grey that the Aboriginals were becoming as adept as Europeans in reaping his wheat, barley and oats.
Newland was also the unpaid pastor of the south, riding long distances to preach and minister to scattered settlers. His chapel at Encounter Bay was opened in 1846, and other places of worship were established by him. As a justice of the peace he took the lead in local causes, chaired all the local meetings, swaying public opinion at his will yet wounding no man's self-esteem. He supported his colleague, Rev. Thomas Stow, in opposition to state aid for religion and he gave evidence favouring secular schools to the select committee on education in 1851. More than once, he walked in a day the fifty miles (80 km) to Adelaide carrying a bundle and wading through three rivers. As a district councillor he had much influence in opening a road and bridging the rivers.
Returning from one preaching visit to Adelaide and Willunga, his coach capsized and he was fatally injured. He died on 9 March 1864. He was buried in a vault beneath the pulpit of his chapel and later reinterred in the Victor Harbor cemetery.
*Please note Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander readers are advised that the following post contains images and information of peoples gone to the dreaming.
In the beginning of July 1839, having determined to settle at this place with my family and connections, a party consisting of six male persons, with two natives as guides, and taking with them our imported cow, four working bullocks, twenty sheep, and four or five goats, commenced their journey from Adelaide overland.
The females of our party, the children, two or three others, and our goods were put on board the Lord Hobart to proceed to the same intended settlement by sea.
In four days the land party reached Encounter Bay, where there was no settler, and the district but very partially known; the survey being very recently begun, and the place only known previously as a whale-fishery. Here, under these circumstances, had arrived our little overland party, and were anxiously looking out for the Lord Hobart, containing their wives, children, friends, goods, provisions.
In due time this vessel safely anchored, and the party and goods were landed, amidst an assemblage of natives whose wonder and curiosity were greatly excited, and must be gratified by putting their hands upon and otherwise examining the females of our party, which, being accompanied by wild and savage gesticulations and boisterous laughing, caused some alarm in the minds of a few, which was much increased when some of our party, consisting only of females and children, were lost in the bush for half the night in making their way to the tents which had been put up for their reception.
Such were the circumstances under which the settlement at this place began. At that time it was a wilderness inhabited only by wild men, kangaroos, & emus.
Encounter Bay now, and that within about two miles of the mouth of the Inman River, of course exclusive of what are usually called the Hindmarsh and Inman Valleys, contains twenty-five inhabited houses (besides the fisheries, which have been much increased); there are nearly two hundred acres of land broken up and much more enclosed; about two hundred head of cattle, and two thousand sheep.
Amongst our settlers we have a German Missionary to the natives, who has acquired their language and published the results; a physician of eminence, who has become here a general practitioner; a Minister of the Gospel, regularly educated in England for his office, and by whom the settlers are assembled and addressed in the morning and evening of each Lord's Day.
Of tradesmen, we have two or three blacksmiths, two or three carpenters and builders, several shoemakers, two or three boat-builders and there have been two vessels built and launched since we have been here, and the prejudices against this Bay, as a harbour, are greatly removed, six or eight vessels of from three to six hundred tons burden having anchored here for several months in the worst seasons and with perfect safety.
We have in progress of erection three houses, while several others are contemplated, as also a place for public worship, the foundation of which is dug, and the greater portion of the materials drawn to the spot. Contributions of about one hundred bushels of wheat are promised to supply the native children while receiving instruction from the Missionary during the next year, and a Mechanics' Institution is talked of.
By far the majority of the settlers here came out as free emigrants and labourers, but now possess amply sufficient land fenced, cleared, and cultivated to supply their families, while those who came out under different circumstances, are pleased in observing their, advancement, and comfort, and, on the whole, do not complain of their own want of success.
Labour which was in the market here is rapidly going out through the pleasing and increasing prosperity of that class of persons, but as far as the ingathering of the harvest is concerned, I am glad to say the natives[sic] very successfully fill up the deficiency. Most of these are now good reapers, and, with few exceptions, desirous of being engaged. Many of them are quite equal in steadiness, speed, continuance, and workmanship to any of the settlers; they are indeed now generally employed.
For myself, I neither employ nor wish for any other harvestmen. By the way, some time ago you had an article in your paper stating that the natives ploughed, sowed, and I do not know what for me. Who hoaxed you thus I cannot tell, but is was very unjustifiable, although I could not but feel amused with the prowess, vapouring, proofs, threats of disclosure contained in a valiant letter sent you in contradiction the next week. I had determined to send you a line to undeceive you, but this valiant knight fought so determinately that I thought it unnecessary.
It is quite enough, however, to state what the natives are, what they do, are willing to do, and are capable of doing, and allow me to state my firm conviction that they may be made in this Bay most efficient labourers in almost any department. I intend to put several of them to new work within the next few months. Instead now of our females being scared at them, or our children either, they would, if out in the bush, feel it a happy circumstance to fall in with natives."
Yours Respectfully, R.W. NEWLAND. Encounter Bay, December 26, 1843.
South Australian Register, Saturday 30 December 1843.
"Three islands lie in the Bay, which, by relief and effect, add much to the beauty of the scenery, for the islands themselves are without beauty. The largest is Granite Island, lying off the "Point," and distant from it, it may be a mile or a mile and a-half, the anchorage under which is called "Victor Harbor." A whaling station was some few years ago formed on this Island, and a reef runs from it to the main. By this reef the natives[sic] used frequently to carry over (at low water) firewood, and fresh water to the station, as the Island is deficient in those essential articles. In one of the disputes between the whalers, some attempted to reach the main by this reef, in which attempt one man was drowned. This led to the trial of the headsman Dutton, who acted with great violence, for manslaugher, but he was acquitted. It is to this reef that the harbour owes its comparative safety. In the heavy gale in which the South Australian was wrecked, the late Capt. Martin, then commanding the John Pirie, entered Victor Harbour by the novel passage of coming over the reef.
Seal Island lies off Granite Island, from which, though it is frequently put down at half-a-mile, it is, I am informed, between four and five miles, nay, I have heard it affirmed as even seven or eight miles' distant. Certainly a mile or two looks nothing at sea. One of the baymen who visited it some short time ago for eggs, &c., found several skeletons of birds and seals, one of the latter of which he described "as big as a bullock," a comparison only tolerable as a Colonial metaphor, with the usual allowance for Colonial hyperbole.
A small island lies off Rosetta Head (to which it has evidently been connected) called by the settlers Wright's Island. This island assists in sheltering Rosetta Harbour by breaking the force of the surf. To the right of the Bluff is another island called by them West Island. I may remark here that the names of these two last do not agree with the Government maps, that which is generally called "West Island" by the settlers being named Wright's Island on the charts, and the Island which they call "Wright's Island," having neither place nor name in the maps or diagrams in the Land office. Neither do any of the maps in the Land-office, to my knowledge, show any of the islands but Wright's Island. It is to be regretted that the islands, have not been laid down, and called by names which all may understand to mean the same island. There is quite difficulty enough to distinguish places by their names as it is, without adding to the confusion. It appears to me that it is the settlers who make the mistake about Wright's Island; that is the island to the right of the Bluff, which was known, named, and laid down on the charts and called after Capt. Wright. R.N., before the Colony was established. But there is no reason why the misnomers should remain, however they may have originated.
From the summit of Rosetta Head a line due north, allowing for the variation of the compass, would lead over Mount Jagged, the Willunga Range, the Mount Lofty Range, and strike upon Adelaide a little to the east—say Dr. Kent's mill for want of some better object.
The direct lineal distance (for in surveying, mountains and valleys are levelled) is forty-five miles. From the Onkaparinga, on the same line, it would cut the river about Morphett's station, and would be thirty one miles. We cannot, however, travel in direct lines, and the usual route is by way of the Horseshoe ( *Old Noarlunga) and Willunga, which puts the road to the westward of this line, the greatest distance west being at the Horseshoe and seven miles. This seven miles west, is, of course, all out of the way, and has to be retraced.
At Mount Jagged the road passes to the eastward of this line, the maximum distance being nearly two miles. For this diverging first west and then east, and for all curves, angles, hills, and ranges, I should allow twenty-two miles, which makes the real distance from Dr. Kent's mill to Rosetta Head sixty-seven miles. Again, the direct distance from the Bluff to the sea-mouth of the Murray is fourteen miles, but to go round by the beach would be twenty-two miles. Talking of distances, it may he observed that from the form of the coast, a voyage to Encounter Bay from Port Adelaide is about double the distance it is by land.
The tourist will now visit both the valleys, and if he is fond of hills Mount Crozier to the west of the Inman, or Mount Perrelilla (I am sure this is not the native[sic] name though meant to be) on the west of the Hind-marsh. The latter is rather a remarkable Mount, and is formed by a spur from the range terminating abruptly in the valley of the Hindmarsh. The crown of this hill is visible for several miles, and part of the adjacent neighbourhood so often and not unjustly described as a hilly and intricate country, becomes with this occasionally in view as a beaten path.
Another fine spur as yet without a name, also terminates in Hindmarsh Valley, but nearer the sea than Mount Perrelilla and which is visible to a still greater distance. I believe some very fine stone can be found in the hills, and most probably mineral treasures. I cannot describe a hill any more than I could describe a cloud - yet how beautiful are some clouds though so fleeting and evanescent! Suffice it for me to say that Mount Perrelilla is, in my view, such a mount that I doubt not but that many an English nobleman would give £20,000 to have such a one on his estate.
Both the Inman and the Hindmarsh Valleys are narrow. The Inman gets wider as it approaches Yankalilla, but I do not reckon the upper part of the Inman in the District of Encounter Bay. After passing Strangway's Station on the Inman, I consider the other portion of the valley as a district of itself.
From the Bay the tourist may extend his trips to Waitpinga to the westward, or Currency Creek to the eastward. Whitepinga can only be reached by a jaunt through a large field of scrub, but there are a few places worth seeing at it. A break in the coast forming a little kind of Bay, a delightful spot for a summer resi-dence, has been secured by Mr. Moorhouse, being section No. 1323, F. Beyond this is Field's Cattle Station. The view seaward now looks on to Backstairs' Passage, and the little Islands called the Pages can be distinctly seen.
I could not give any description of Encounter Bay without mentioning the very discreditable manner in which it has been surveyed. Instead of keeping his lines parallel and as much to right angled figures as possible, the surveyor seems to have taken a delight in altering both the shape and angles of almost every section. If he did this with a view to show his skill he entirely failed, for even his measurement was in many instances grossly incorrect. The consequence is that a great deal more fencing will be required to enclose the sections, besides the annoyance and difficulty of finding boundaries ; and a good foundation is laid for quarrels between neighbours, and for future litigation.
Nor would any notice of the Bay be complete with-out mentioning the exertions that have been made by the settlers for the improvement of the aboriginal race, particularly of the rising generation. Independent of the higher and nobler principles which ought to guide us in considering the native race, and of the "necessity that is laid, upon us" to make them compensation for the forced assumption of their country ; it is as a mere matter of pounds, shillings, and pence, a sound policy to attempt their civilization. I am satisfied that a Missionary is of more advantage in maintaining peace and good order among them, and between them and the settlers than half-a-dozen police constables would be. Wellington and Moorunde on the Murray would be very desirable Missionary Stations.
It may be also hoped that some lover of science may be induced to keep a meteorological diary at the Bay. The tides seem very irregular, and are also worthy of observation. The tides in the Mersey were found to be very irregular, yet, on a register kept for 18 years, a theory has been founded of practical advantage.
In-deed so much are the public interested in correct meteorological observations, that I would suggest that Customs' authorities at the Port, and the Resident Magistrate at the Murray, should be directed to keep registers in addition to their present duties ; and the police at the Bay might it also be directed to keep observations on the tides and of such other data (say, for instance, the wind, and a thermometrical register) within their competent ability. To scientific individuals deficient in instruments, barometers, hygrometers, and pluviameters might be granted under proper regulations by a small vote of the Legislative Council.
Might I also suggest to the parties interested in the Fishery at the Bay the advantage and facility with which fresh water might be brought to the Fishing Station. There is a spring on the sand hill in the scrub close to the native pad to Whitepinga, which, if cleared out, would yield an abundant supply, and might be brought to the fishery at a comparatively trifling expense ; probably not so much as it costs now for the carriage of water to the fishery during one season.
From the known partiality of Governor Hindmarsh for Encounter Bay, it was at one time in great vogue, and though this feeling has subsided, it is justly looked on as an important district. Col. Light, rejected it as the site for the first town and seat of Government, and very properly ; still it has its advantages. The traffic and commerce of the neighbourhood must centre at the Bay, such as of the upper part of the Valley of the Inman, Currency Creek, and most probably of the Lake and the Murray, for it would have been as well to have had no sea mouth to the Murray as the present unprotected, wild, foaming channel.
The Bay has also the credit of being one of the coolest places for a summer residence in the as yet settled portions of the coast, enjoying the cool refreshing breezes from the ocean, and the ranges at the back throwing their shadows before the setting sun make the evenings long and cool. It is also sheltered from the "hot winds," a consideration hitherto too much neglected in the purchase of land. The islands in the Bay, with the view over the Bay, and the view of the Ranges, many parts of which are very panoramic and picturesque, conspire to produce an effect peculiar to the valley of Encounter Bay. That it is much milder may be instanced by the seasons being from three to four weeks later than in the neighbour-hood of Adelaide.
And taking it on the whole it may be stated as a district that stands deservedly high in public opinion, higher perhaps than any place at the same distance from Adelaide; and, when the time comes for summer residences, and for visiting watering places, it bids fair to become the most fashionable resort in the province. But what is better just now than fashionable visitors is that there we obtain our chief supply of oil, both for consumption and exportation.
Blame me not for hoping, my hope in not built as a castle in the air. It was but a few years since that the first settler (the Rev. Mr. Newland) at the Bay sent his family round by sea from Adelaide, while he went "overland ;" and now, by the location of a mere handful of settlers, how much altered is the Bay. Blame me not then for anticipation or retrospection : it is only in these we live. Our crest is a rising sun, and our motto "Advance, Australia!"
Adelaide Observer, Saturday 16 March 1844.
More on Ridgeway William Newland here -
https://adb.anu.edu.au/biogr.../newland-ridgway-william-2505
#Ngarrindjericountry #Ramindjericountry
#southaustraliahistory #pioneersassociationsa